“Orange ta chambre!” The owner’s mother surely said this to him daily, given the entirely clementine look of this Japanese spot (down to the waiters’ tee-shirts!) that’s packed tighter than a Tokyo subway car, with seats around the bar, hissing fryers and friendly but rushed service. Hot or cold, the udon (thick wheat noodles) are served with shrimp tempura in a complex broth with chives and an egg (€18), or topped with strips of pork, raw onions, a sesame paste and a cold sauce (€17). Plus, the karaage chicken is just as tasty and served with rice, sautéed salsify and Japanese omelet (€10). To drink: Kirin on tap (€4 for a half-pint) or Oolong canned tea (€3). Udon €11-20, menus €16-31 (lunch). // A.A.