De Wan is one and done, now it’s over to The Wan & Only! While this old neighborhood café has kept all its original charm (an ornate bar, wood-paneled ceilings) since Lore Moerman and Robbe Kerkhove (founders of the now-closed Bodo) took over, the menu has been given a well-deserved makeover. The result? In addition to the local beers, the classic Belgian dishes are hearty and fuss-free, in equal measure: homemade bitterballen (Dutch meatballs) stuffed with juicy shredded beef; fancy shiitake escabeche with thinly sliced ​​raw fennel for a refreshing kick; flawless steak tartare seasoned with chervil, plus fries and mayo; and melt-in-the-mouth beef cheek stew with beer… As alternative to the selection of cheeses from the nearby cheesemongers Het Hinkelspel, wrap things up with a humungous portion of (overly sweet) pistachio tiramisu. Nostalgia lovers, this new-old HQ is for you! // Joséphine Espe

FEELING THIRSTY? Beers aplenty (including a Pony’s IPA and an alcohol-free Dokkie from the Dok Brewing Company, €5 and €6 for 330 ml), living wines (Tribu’lles, a pet’ nat’ from the Jura department at €9.50 a glass), homemade lemonade (€7) or, for the well-behaved, a fresh ginger infusion (€5).

PRICE: À la carte 36-48 €.