Diu Biban

A lovely little name (an untranslatable Gascon exclamation) for this old mainstay near the center of Hossegor, which has been taken over by chef Antton Lesobre (ex-Prince Noir in Lormont), former trainer Thibault Leblais and wine lover Thomas Dassé. What’s this Bayonne-based trio’s motto? Simple, good, unpretentious and uninhibited cuisine! The day we went for lunch, that meant: an outstanding César salad; steamed hake fillet with seaweed infused butter, melted fennel, clams and prawn head jus; before a slice of praline cake from Artigarrède in Oloron. What else is there to say? You’ll find carefully-sourced Basques and Landes eats: charcuterie from La Ferme des Vallons; pil-pil octopus with polenta fries; smashed potatoes with smoked herring and trout; Axuria dry-aged prime rib; half a suckling pig from Maskarada… and even shellfish (lake oysters, pink shrimp, brown crab) served from the shack located in the parking lot! // Gérard Roubeix 

FEELING THIRSTY? : A list of 500 labels, which include some natural options (Toujours Plus, a Lot malbec from Benoît Aymard at €6 a glass, Le Vignoble d’Elian, a Côtes-du-Marmandais from Elian Da Ros at €35 a bottle), Maison Deuza tea (€5), Bruel beers aged in Juraçon or Cognac barrels (€35 a bottle), and a handful of Armagnacs (12-year-old Darroze at €8.50).
PRICE: : Set menu €19 (lunch), plates €5-21, shellfish €11-23.