Once upon a time in the West, along the Étang Blanc pond, there was a Landes institution orchestrated by the Lesbats family for nearly a hundred years. Running this time machine of a space? The founders’ grandson Christophe and his partner Pascale, the current guardians of local specialties. The night we went, the plates were filled with terroir flavors: a traditional Landes pâté to kick things off; octopus stewed in duck fat, plated atop smoked eggplant caviar; crispy duck thigh confit that falls off the bone, surrounded by potatoes sautéed with garlic and parsley; and to round out the meal, pastis (a traditional Landes brioche) prepared like French toast, or a classic gâteau basque that goes down easy. FYI: on summer nights, regional classics get cooked on the braséro fire pit. // Carla Fouti   

FEELING THIRSTY? : Local wines: Irouléguy red and white from the Domaine Etxondoa (€36-38 a bottle), Landes cola and Olatu juice (€4).  
PRICE: : Set menu €30, kids’ menu €12, à la carte €43-59.