Taking over from the much-missed Candide, between Belleville and the village-like Sainte-Marthe neighborhood, Osteria Paradiso has preserved the place’s understated charm while giving it an unapologetically Italian soul: raw wood, time-worn tomette floor tiles, an open kitchen and all the warmth of neighborhood trattoria. At the helm are Calabrian-born chef Alessandro Candido and Camille Guillaud, front of house, celebrating Italian cooking that wears its heart on its sleeve, with all the warmth and nostalgia of Giuseppe Tornatore’s Cinema Paradiso. The antipasti deliver emotion at first bite, before the pasta makes its grand entrance – the undisputed leading ladies of the menu. Pair the lot with Italian wines for every palate and pocket. A little slice of Paradiso! · Jacques Tourteau

Ate: Linguine with Mediterranean crab bisque and prawns, chosen over the mezzi paccheri with homemade Calabrian salsiccia ragù or the pasta of the day (mushroom ravioli with sage butter); followed by an utterly faultless, creamy tiramisu made with Trinci coffee.

Price: Pasta of the day €14 (weekday lunch), antipasti €10-14, dishes €19-25, sides €6-7, desserts €7-10, kids’ menu €14.