Could the grass really be greener in this village of just 200 souls tucked away in Basse-Navarre? In search of a more deeply rooted way of cooking, chef Anthony Orjollet (who used to work at the now-closed Epoq in Biarritz and Elements in Bidart) has left the coast behind for good to rekindle the fire in a light-filled stone, timber and glass outbuilding. Here, he continues his quietly radical ...