From small fry to big fish! After a decade at the stoves of Le Dauphin, Mathieu Canet has a new fish to fry – or rather, a cuttlefish to grill – at this dinner spot with a distinctly Bordeaux twang. The dining room may be on its best behavior (a mirrored wall, marble furnishings, white tablecloths) and the service a little (too?) chatty, but the chef knows just where to misbehave: at the ta...