All change on Place des Lices! After their stint on Rue Nantaise, Pierre Eon (ex-Roellinger and Altapura in Val Thorens) and his team (Claire de Sagazan, Hugo Pardon, Olivier Le Corre and Dominique Petretti) have upped sticks and moved into a freshly revived seventeenth-century hôtel particulier for their latest act: Benèze (Southwest French slang for “feeling right at ease”). Inside, it’s all restrained elegance: two pared-back dining rooms with timeworn stone walls, pale oak tables, an original fireplace and an open bar where the former Top Chef contestant fires off seriously killer sharing plates. That night: tomato and celery tartare glossed with olive oil and capped under a cloud of siphoned burrata; œuf parfait adrift in vadouvan-spiced carrot soup, laced with chili oil; delicate aged ricotta salata carpaccio embellished with piment d’Espelette jelly, crunchy croutons and a dash of pear vinegar; before finishing with a pillowy slab of brioche French toast dripping with salted caramel and an addictive vanillary crème anglaise. And when the table’s a big one? The chef scales up in style: Noir de Bigorre pork from Domaine de Barthas, XL cannelloni stuffed with pork and lobster, and the cult “crying tiger” steak. · Lester Grossman

FEELING THIRSTY? A tight, comprehensive drinks edit: Philomenn red ale (€5.40 for a half-pint), crémant de Loire from Maison Langlois (€8 a glass), a bouzeron from Louis Jadot (€42 a bottle) and Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Domaine Durieu (€70). Soft options include Recolt strawberry-apple juice (€6 for 250 ml).

PRICE: Sharing plates €12-35 (lunch), plates €7-12, desserts €6 (dinner).