Old stone walls, parquet floors, a vintage bar… A stone’s throw from the tasty Marché des Lices, La Mirlitantouille – helmed by Simon Commault and Yann-Eric Toutain (ex-Passerini, Chez Michel and Le Jourdain in Paris) – has all the hallmarks of a perfectly pitched bistro. Its name? A wink to a spot in the 22000 zipcode dear to the two friends. Since, 2019, Yann-Eric’s small plates have been steadily winning over Rennes’ robust appetites, walking the fine line between tradition and bistronomic. Take lunchtime: refreshing Albacore tuna tartare speckled with white sesame seeds, lounging in a yuzu-wasabi dressing; tender seared pork belly laid over chivey fresh tomatoes; and a rhubarb frangipane tart served with a scoop of elderflower ice cream. Come evening, the mood turns full bistro classic: sausage and mash, steak tartare, mussels and fries, house-aged ribeye… · Lester Grossman

FEELING THIRSTY? Au naturel: Mer et Coquillage, an edelswicker from Julien Meyer, or Vin Nu, an Ardèche red from Domaine des Deux Terres (both €6 a glass), a melon from La Sœur Cadette (€35 a bottle), Vaste Programme, a carbonic maceration carignan-grenache from Les Maoù in Ventoux (€32), plus local Atika ginger beer on tap (€4 a glass).

PRICE: Set menu €17.50 and €22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €30-61 (evening).