No more globetrotting! After honing their craft in Mexico, Japan and then Paris, Lucy Rosedale (ex-Cendrillon and Au Passage, front of house) and chef Noé Viviès (ex-Magma and Pluto) have finally put down their suitcases and settled in the historic center of Rennes. Inside what used to be Faubourg – which has had a stylish lick of paint for the occasion (almond-green facade, exposed stone walls, light-wood counter) – resistance is futile in the face of the captivating dishes (served on ceramics by Studio Four) that make up the refined yet incredibly vibrant five-course menu: a delicate dashi broth with corn to set the tone; praires clams sautéed in tequila with jalapeño and chives; sublime raw bluefin tuna from Loctudy, bathed in fermented pepper sauce with a touch of shiso; incredibly tender dehydrated beets decorated with guanciale, goat cheese and mizuna; barbecued Coucou de Rennes chicken served with smoked potato purée, kale, black garlic and a chicory jus; before ending with a smoked hojicha crème brûlée to share – thought we would have gladly kept it all to ourselves. · Églantine Dupont

FEELING THIRSTY? In addition to Lucy’s concoctions (like the fermented peach, shiso and ginger mocktail, €7) and a non-alcoholic Iessi aperitif (€6), the wine list features around a hundred natural wines delivered straight from the winemakers: Vieilles Vignes, a gamay from Jean-Claude Lapalu (€6 a glass), Y A Plus Qu’à Signé, an Alsatian white from Kumpf and Meyer (€30 a bottle) and La Petite Robe, a Savoyard orange wine from Jean-Yves Péron (€50).

PRICE: Set menu €42 (five courses, except Sundays), à la carte €31-43.