Epicerie Nomad

Ceci n’est pas une épicerie… at least it’s not an épicerie anymore. Within these walls, you’ll now find the latest restaurant from Jean Callens, a chef who has cooking in his blood, and who reestablished himself in the Ixelles neighborhood after leaving his Callens Café. Located a few meters from Audrey Hepburn’s birthplace (an anecdote to sprinkle into the conversation at your next dinner party), the chef has preserved all the warm features of a neighborhood épicerie (a big counter, a timeless Berkel scale) to welcome customers in as he would to his own home. And the plates are a journey: tuna tataki with a sesame crust, which almost felt meaty, served with peppers, leeks and soy beans cooked in a wok, all of which could have used a little more seasoning; burrata pimped out with truffle cream, arugula and eggplant, plus fried leek tops, which was also a little on the timid side; but some truly beautiful braised octopus with potato and chorizo mash; and for dessert, coconut rice pudding infused with lemongrass, as lovely as it was generous, with a caliente chili coulis and crispy sesame crumble topping. // Bobby Lapinte

FEELING THIRSTY? A wine list with plenty of choice, in which we unearthed a few beautiful natural specimens (like Samso, a red from the Domaine Cazes at €8 a glass or an orange wine from Le Mas Janeil at €43 a bottle, both of which were produced in the Roussillon department), and a non-alcoholic gin for the sober and sober-curious among you (€8).

PRICE: À la carte €42-67.